Tuesday, December 15, 2009

Take the train dude

You know that pet bone you pick with your partner all the time? The one your friends roll their eyes and refer to when they talk about you? Car vs Train travel is fast becoming one that we add to our "repertoire" as it were. Here's my case for why train travel is better ....

1. Liberation from the GPS! No anxious searching for the right street, no standing on one leg to get a satellite signal, no going round and round in circles just because "Tom" says so. Try it, it'll add a few minutes to your lifespan.

2. Catching up on your reading. A few hours of uninterrupted me time with the latest Vogue, Conde Nast Traveller, National Geographic and of course the latest Newsweek. Perhaps with a warm cappucino and chocolate bread. Heaven!

3. No parking hassles. True story - We were in Basel last weekend for a show, we parked at an underground parking lot at a nearby Migros. The show left at 5.30 pm, and we head to the car. Only we couldn't get inside! All the Migros entrances were shut, as it was closing time (naturally), luckily we caught the last guy working in the basement through the machine at the entrance! And it cost us an arm and a leg for the two hours we'd parked there.

We could have saved ourselves the trouble by taking the tram/bus to the station and back.

4. Its better for the environment. This one should probably be on top - . The same 150 miles travelled by train would have released half the CO2 that the car did.

5) Daydreaming! Settle back into your barca lounger on the little strip of beach at the back of your mansion, be an intrepid adventurer dashing to dark and dangerous corners of the earth, or be Beyonce.... all without worrying about getting flashed by a radar!

Grand Avenue

So if you still think Swiss train travel isn't that comfortable, I leave you with a 2 minute snapshot of travel in a local train in Mumbai. Anything will seem better after this!






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Sunday, December 13, 2009

Hopenhagen 2009 - Be a thought leader

The Guardian has established a "Reader Leaders" section, inviting readers to weigh in with their indepth views on Copenhagen, climate change and the state of the green revolution

Here's my article...

The Copenhagen Summit forges on, despite Climategate. Brave attempts have been made to reestablish credibility and redirect energies to achieving positive outcomes, especially by drawing focus to pledges made by leading developing world countries (China,India, South Africa) to cut carbon emissions.... Read More Here
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Friday, December 11, 2009

Geneva in the spotlight


If you happen to travel to Geneva this week chances are you'll see a lot of what look like soup or fondue pots in the windows. If you are not a local, like me, you will probably assume this is a traditional, albeit eccentric, way of welcoming the Christmas. You would also be dead wrong.




The soup pot is called a "marmite" , and is the quirky symbol of Geneva's "independence". That's right - four centuries ago, the Genevois proudly staved off attack from the forces of Savoy, made in the dead of night, probably by three times the number of people that lived in town at that time. That day is proudly remembered today, The Fetes des Escalades is in it's 75th anniversary in Geneva. The celebrations include costumed street parades at various places in Geneva, children's events and other festivities and an running race through the city centre. (Detailed information)

The festival finishes out what has been a great month for Geneva. A few weeks ago, it was one in only three cantons that voted against the Swiss People's party's vote to ban minarets. While most right wing supporters wrote this off the to the large proportion of foreigners composing the city's population, it was clear that people here thought differently, and weren't afraid of saying so.

Geneva was top of the mind again at this year's Lyon Festival of Lights, where one of the most evocative and avant garde displays was created by a Genevois, Robert Nortik. The Geneva based actor, filmmaker and artist devised the brilliant display, projecting scenes from Fellini's La Dolce Vita at a 360 degree radius around the square at Place des Jacobins. I'm not an art film conossieur, perhaps his choice of this film will become clearer in the next few weeks - I can vouch for the visual imagery of the display - it is powerful and seeps into your subconscious.





What struck me also was that despite the obvious abundance of talent, the Festival des Arbres Lumieres in Geneva currently on, is but a pale shadow to the vibrance and sheer scale of the display at Lyon, just a few hours away. There is clearly a case to be made here for a more vibrant city, one that is open to artistic endeavour and evolution.

While it is clear then that the people of Geneva are proud of their history, tradition and the essential character of their culture and values, it is not so certain however, whether they are able to see the way forward for their city as clearly.
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Wednesday, December 9, 2009

Lyon-Festival of Lights 09

I have to say I was astounded at the sheer scale, number of people and the spectacle of the Festival of Lights in Lyon. The installations were the best of modern art in themselves, but the city of Lyon is an icing on the cake  - vibrant, diverse, cultural - the best of what Europe has to offer.





An hour and a half drive from Geneva, this French city is a must visit for anyone looking for a short break from Switzerland. Apart from the sights the shopping and the food are outstanding.I recommend half a day spent at Part Dieu - the largest mall, with a must do lunch at Rouge Tendance, a hip, multicuisine cafe tucked away at the base of the mall.

If boutique shopping is what interests you, check out the interesting stores at the 6th arrondisement.For some amazingly funky hangouts, head to the back lanes running upwards from the Rue de la Republique. There are a number of small art galleries and cafes here, with loads of restaurants and a variety of cuisines.

This was as much as we could do in a day and a half, but watch this space for more details on Lyon- a followup trip is definitely on the cards!
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Sunday, December 6, 2009

Job hunting in Switzerland - the saga continues..

Today marks the four month anniversary of my unemployment. Being a  scarred veteran of the job hunting scene in Geneva, I thought I'd share with you some of the most common types of personalities  that I've encountered so far.

1) The Con Artist Recruiter - These are the guys who make sure they post a position sound that sounds attractive, urgent and important. This ensures they recieve hundreds of applications. They then use the forthcoming months to sift through these applications and identify the best resumes for their data banks.  Most good recruiters let you know one way or another, so if you haven't heard from these guys for a few weeks, assume you've been scammed.

2) The Slow Movers - These are guys who take between 2 -3 months to open a file that has been emailed to them. This seems to include most of the international organisations here in Geneva. True Story - I applied for a position to one such organisation two months ago, they just emailed me last week, saying they had recieved my documents and are now processing them for the position! What is ironic is that most of these guys list "agility" and "speed of response" as standard hiring requirements.

Moderately Confused



3) The Opportunist Employer - These are employers who will try and get the best possible resource at the cheapest possible price. They use the desperation of candidates in the current market situation to pay less, or hire overqualified candidates for a role.

4) The Circling Vultures - Unemployment seems to hurt only the person  out of work, everyone else is making a killing out of it. Consultants, networking organisations, advice groups, resume writers ... you name it, there is someone offering a service to help you get through it. Having closely worked with a couple of these guys however, I've reverted back to the "help yourself" policy. Its cheaper and saves you a lot of unnecessary irritation.

5) The Employer with a God Complex - True story - I spent three weeks interviewing for a multinational organisation that, in the name of professionalism, put me through four rounds of interviews, including a day long, torturous psychological assessment. They then took another week to tell me I'd done well and they would like to make an offer. Next, they took another week to "get approvals" from their head office. After which they told me that they had decided not to hire for these positions till next year.

The common theme that all of the above display is a startling lack of respect for the candidate's time,money and state of mind. There is a cynicism and a lack of concern here, the candidate is most times reduced to nothing more than a circus monkey jumping through the hoops, in the hope of getting employed.

The job market is the toughest its been in decades, especially in Europe; but what recruiters and employers seem to have lost sight of is that this will not always be the case. When economies boom , the shoe will firmly be on the other foot. It is when they will have to chase good talent that  equity will come into play, then perhaps, they will wish they had behaved with more integrity when they could have.


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Wednesday, December 2, 2009

The World's Friendliest Expat Cities

HSBC released the results of its Expat Explorer survey this week, covering 26 expat locations across the globe. Not surprisingly, Switzerland places at the bottom of the table on the friendliness index. South East Asia comes out on top on this score. Switzerland comes in ninth among established/developed markets, with Canada topping the list.


Overall, Switzerland ranks 13, with high rankings for healthcare, family life, commuting and transport. The overall league table can be found here

The full report can be found here.

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Monday, November 30, 2009

The day fear won ...

It's official. Terror has won. The decision to ban minarets is the latest victory granted on a platter to every radical, hate mongering terrorist out there; even worse, it gives them a platform of self righteousness from where to boast that they are justified in what they are doing. " The west is waging a war on Islam", they will proclaim - unfortunately, they will be right about Switzerland.

What is even more riling are the news reports that the vote is a "gut reaction" of the Swiss, including  ..." resentment over the lack of willingness to integrate by some migrants, the widespread fear of the spread of foreign cultures and the fear that the Swiss Christian culture could be under threat." (swissinfo.com)

Let's get a few things straight. Integration works both ways. It's called assimilation. Integration can only be harmonious and beneficial when both sets of parties understand each other's culture - if the Swiss are saying "my way or the highway" to foreigners, they can only expect a similar response.

Secondly, the Swiss also need to get some perspective. They are a tiny, European country in the Alps, whose greatest selling points include being bankers to the world by keeping people's dirty secrets. And providing large conference rooms to international organisations on the back of being a "neutral" location. They have already been hammered on a world stage on selling point no 1. All the best on maintaining any credibility after this vote.

More importantly, it is delusional to expect that an insular Switzerland will be able to survive in the modern world. Swiss economic development is coming on the back of tax sops offered to foreign multinationals by various cantons.Swiss children seek to study and work abroad. Swiss service industries need workforce replenishment. None of this is going to happen in an environment that is suspicious and hostile to foreigners.

In this single act of fear, Switzerland has delivered itself a setback that is going to take a lot to undo. I am proud to be a citizen of Geneva, which was one of the 3 cantons to not vote for this ban. Let us hope that political cynicism will not lead to more such right wing hate mongering. Let us hope that voices of reason will prevail in the future.
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Tuesday, November 24, 2009

Twilight for Dummies






Wondering why TV channels are going nuts over the launch of New Moon? Mostly interested in the Non fiction rack in the bookstore? Stuck in a room full of giggly girls gushing abour Edward's eyes? At a multiplex, considering whether you should get in the line for tickets to New Moon? Here's the least you need to know about the Twilight....


What's it about?

Its a teenage romance. Only one hero is a vampire, the other a warewolf.



Why the frenzy?

The seemingly doomed love story appeals to the hormonal and angst driven sensibilities of girls between the ages 8-20. Both Edward (vampire) and Jacob (warewolf) are insanely good looking, this appeals to women outside this age group as well ( ahem...) .

Should I read the books?

Yes, the brooding angst comes out better in the books. As with all stories with an element of fantasy in them, they play out better in your own imagination, than a bog standard Hollywood version. In the case of the Twilight series, watching the films cold turkey might actually turn  you off, especially the first part, since the storyline's major concern is establishing a dreamy romance between the two leads.


 Who are the main characters?

Edward Cullen (resident vampire) and Bella Swan (awkward teenager) are the main leads. Jacob Black emerges as a main character in New Moon, as the newgrown resident warewolf. Side characters include Edward's family (Alice, Carlisle, Esme, Emmet and Rosalie - all vampires), Bella's dad (Charlie), and Jacob's fellow wolfpack buddies (Sam Ulay, Quill and Jared.) The vampires also have Xmen style special powers. The real bad guys are the Volturri family, who is introduced in the New Moon.

Is it better than Harry Potter?

No. Apart from establishing an entire mythology and world of magical characters, the Potter series gives you a rich subtext through stories and metaphors. It's in a different league.

Why bother?

Let's face it, the older you get, the more you need to make sure you are part of the latest "cool" media phenomenon to prove you are still with it.


Can I fake it?

Yes you can. Try the following in a conversation

" So do you think Bella will change? "
" I think Bella and Jacob are more real, don't you?"

The response to any of the above sentences should give you enough material to muddle through. I leave you with the trailer for New Moon, created by Team Switzerland.












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Tuesday, November 17, 2009

There's a bubble in the blogosphere

It started out as a simple idea... I wanted to jazz up my website with pictures I'd taken during our recent trip to Barcelona.I'd seen a lot of sites with these rolling photographic slideshows and I wanted to setup something similar for my blog.

I had no idea what I was letting myself in for. A week and 5 unsuccessful attempts at web template changes later, I was a cross eyed, irritable wreck with so much tech jargon buzzing through my head, that when P asked me if I'd like to go out for a stroll Saturday afternoon, I snarled,

"I'm trying to beta test embedded functionalities and synthesize innovative mashups to orchestrate compelling experiences for WEG!"

P....a long pause later.... "Is that a no?"

Blogs selling templates. Blogs selling code to modify templates. Blogs selling advice on why the code on modifying templates was wrong, and selling "corrected" updates on these templates. Blogs discussing the "artistry" of certain codes versus others. It was like I'd opened the closet door and wandered into the secret land of "Geekmania".

Is the entire blogosphere a bubble? Could it be that there are, like, 100 real websites, being written by writers, and the rest, websites related to how to design, modify or enhance these sites and related technology upgrades? Are there any real "readers" out there?

The numbers seem to back this theory - 5 of the Top 10 blogs on Technorati's directory (with a total of 54706 blogs) relate to technology and gadgets, Technology is their third largest category, with 2 sub categories- Infotech and Gadgets- comprising a whopping 6300 blogs!

One thing is clear- The internet is the new piazza. It's the place you come to to pick up something you need, to shop, to grab a quick bite, to meet a friend or a date, or to catch the general buzz.

It's also rapidly seems to be becoming the place you go to get away from more "serious" pursuits - learning, reading, researching, debating. Bloggers, lured by visions of multi million dollar online  businesses, are not just cutting down the length of their blog posts, but also the content. The search result is becoming synonymous with data itself, we seem to have
 got lost in a maze of empty hyperlinks, most of which link to each other, 
very few linking to any actual, reliable information. Ironically, we are so completely taken in by the "mirage" of non information, that we refuse to pay enough for the guys who actually generate reliable content - the entire news journalism industry is currently in a crisis of existence.

30 years ago, a British software consultant, Tim Berners Lee, working at CERN, Geneva, invented a computer program to share his notes with the rest of the scientific community. He called this program Enquire, and designed it to enable users within a computer network to access data residing on each others computers freely. The network grew exponentially to what we know as the Internet today. Making this technology open source is perhaps the greatest contribution by a single human being to society in the modern age. I leave you with this excellent quote by him,

"Whether it is a turning point in societal evolution depends not only on the technology.. but also how we use it!..."












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Thursday, November 5, 2009

The Lost Symbol- beyond the joyride

A week long trip to Barcelona was a lot longer than most vacations I've been on so far, so I thought I'd have plenty of time to relax, roll up my sleeves and dive into Dan Brown's latest bestselling potboiler - The Lost Symbol.

The book started out pretty much as expected, with the usual lineup of symbological potpourri (this tbook explores the mythology of the Freemasons) thrown in along with a made for Hollywood style thriller. As it progressed however, I began to get an eerie feeling of deja vu, as I found that a lot of what I was reading was actually materialising itself through the sights and sounds of Barcelona, especially when I visited the church of the Sagrada Familia.

Take Exhibit 1 - One of the many clues in the plotline relates to a "Magic Square", a grid of numbers that add up to the same number, by row, column and diagonal. The book refers to a square within a famous painting - Melancholia 1 - by Albrecht Durer, the numbers within which help to unravel on of the key clues in the plot.

As I approached the stunning Passion Facade of the Sagrada, voila, there it was- a magic square adding up to 33!





A spooky coincidence? Maybe. Conspiracy theories about Gaudi's masonic links abound, there is even a book with this as its main plot (The Gaudi Key). While the magic square at the Sagrada has actually been created by Joseph Subirachs, conspiracy theorists point to various other masonic symbols that have been embedded by Gaudi in other parts of the temple completed by him.

I was disappointed with the book though, I felt that the author prioritised writing a story that could be made into a blockbuster movie, over focussing on the more fascinating aspects of what I call the "collective consciousness" subplot. One of the key characters in the book is a Noetic Scientist, researching the apparent physical entity of a human thought, and scientifically trying to prove that man can control and harness thought to have a real impact of the destiny of the world.

The parallel between this subplot, and the project of the church of the Sagrada Familia is compelling.This project has been in the making now for amost 130 years (started in 1882). Gaudi himself worked on the temple for 15 of these years, largely on the Nativity facade. All work on the church post his death purports to conform to his artistic vision.







After his death, the project has been completed by numerous other architects, and hundreds of on site workers, in line with Gaudi's overall vision. The most striking mark has perhaps been left by Joseph Subirachs, whose sculptures at the Passion facade cannot help but move you to the angst and the glory of Christ's suffering. What I found the most striking about his work however, was its technique. Subirach's sculptures are modern art as we know it, with clean, bold lines. The texture of the stone is the medium providing the emotional narrative. They are in striking contrasts to Gaudi's opulent and fantastic Nativity Facade, yet the two seem to exist in harmony and add substance to each other.

Over its history, the church has seen evolution in terms of architectural techniques, from Gaudi's original drawings, models and moulds, to sophisticated 3D CAD software today; from hand sculpture to modern stone drilling tools; from stone and sand to concrete. 

There could not be a more substantive example of a harnessing of collective consciousness to preserve an artist's vision, and to perhaps to create a work of art that will outlast us to capture the imaginations of generations to come. In the act of its creation, this site transcends the narrow confines of tradition and religion.



As I gazed, awestruck, at Barcelona from the top of the Gaudi's spires, the final line from Dan Brown's novel ran through my head - " God was a symbol that we all shared ... a symbol of our limitless human potential."










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Friday, October 30, 2009

The Rain in Spain - And the Alhambra

For the first few hours, we almost regretted having left the buzz and excitement of Barcelona for Granada. The approach from the airport was through an industrial area, with dirty furniture warehouses and gritty factories. The approach into the centre of town reavealed a quiet small town, with one main street. Not much was happening, even at five in the evening. We were told that the town shut shop at siesta time.

This is not one of those "boutique" small towns that you visit for the souvenir shopping or the local art. What it does have however is character. As a visitor to Granada, you learn to slow down, to let the attractions of the place grow on you, instead of the constant whirlwind of sightseeing that is any normal vacation.

As you wander through the back streets of town that lead up to the cobbled alleys of Albayzin, you begin to appreciate the unique history of this place. Granada was the last bastion of the Muslim (moorish) empire in Spain, before the surrender of the last of the Nasrid kings - Boabdil- to King Ferdinand and Queen Isabella in the 15th century. The settlement in Albayzin dates to as far back as the 11th century, it became the extension of the "medina" or the marketplace for the Nasrid kings who made Granada the seat of the kingdom. It retains much of its historical character. Most tourists pass through the Albayzin to reach viewing points to the top of the hill, however this historic quarter itself deserves some more attention, such as the Palace of Dar al Horra (residence of the first queen Aisha) and the Muslim baths. The fascinating blend of Muslim life and architecture with the catholic influences of the Castilians makes this a unique site to visit.

And then of course there is the Alhambra. A lot of superlatives have been written about the Alhambra, and I was curious to see if it really lived up to the hype. It did. With socks on. We spent almost an entire day there, and we still managed to see about 80% of the place-we had to stop because our feet gave out.

The Al Hambra is a walled fortress town, broadly clustered into the Nasrid official palaces, the Generalife (the king's private palaces), the various towers, the unfinished palace of Charles V, the Alcazba. The fortress is designed so one flows from one building to the other through exquisitely designed gardens and water fountains. We were assisted through our exploration of the Alhambra by an audioguide which contained excerpts of Washington Irving's "The Tales of the Alhambra", who actually lived in the palace for a few months, during his journeys theough Spain.

Many stories and legends revolve around places within the Alhambra. The more powerful ones relate the discovery of the infidelity of Zoraya in the garden of cypresses, or Queen Isabel recruiting Christopher Columbus to sail around the world in the Salon de los Embajadores.

I am not even going to try to verbally describe the beauty of this place, or the feelings of mystery and romance it evokes. I will only say that the Alhambra has to be on any list of places that one must visit in a lifetime.



(The Alhambra and the Albayzin quarter are UNESCO world heritage sites. They are an hour and a half flight away from Barcelona, cheap tickets are available on Vueling and Ryanair)



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Tuesday, October 13, 2009

The Boot Signal

Batman had one to let him know when Gotham was in trouble. The three wise men saw one in the sky when the Big J arrived.Something always went wrong every time Harry met Sally.

It was a sign. One that we choose to ignore. 

We first started seeing it in the last week of September.Every woman on the street (and quite a few men) were wearing boots. Short ones, long ones, stiff ones and slouchy ones. It was like the autumn fashion fairy had come in and gobbled up all summer footwear from the city of Geneva.

In fact we even laughed about it as we walked to dinner this weekend. " Trust the Swiss do everything like clockwork." October has begun. Must change footwear. It didn't really matter that there was no snow. In fact it wasn't even that cold. There we were, ambling through the streets of Paquis in our denim jackets. Inside the restaurant, it was positively toasty.

That is until we got out. The chill seemed to have seeped in through the strong denim of my jacket. "Brr, its really cooled down," I said. "Nah, its nothing." P said. If P had a superpower, it would be a body temperature ten degrees higher than normal human beings."Lets get a gelato and walk down to the car." 

I was shivering by the time we got to the gelateria. " I'll have hazelnut," P looked at me expectantly. " Unn nnnnoissette, s'il vous plait." I'm the official translator.

"Nothing for you?" P normally looks forward to finishing my ice cream cone in addition to his. " No, I'll pass. I can't feel my ears. It's gotta have dropped down to 5 degrees"

" Nah, it's not that cold," he said. "I'll give you 500 bucks if its lesser than 15 degrees. We'll check it once we get to the car."

By the time we were in the car, I had lost all sensation in my face. We turned the ignition on. 26 degrees. "It's because we're dddown in the pparking lot." I cut P off before the inevitable "I told you so"

"Bet's still on. 500 bucks if it goes below 15 by the time we get home"

It hit 21 by the time we drove out of the parking lot, dropped another five in the seven minutes it took to drive home.

I'm going to use the 500 to buy a thick overcoat. And boots.










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Wednesday, October 7, 2009

Theres more to October than pumpkin!

Voila, almost in a flash, we enter the best part of the year. I love this part of the year, it has joy and affirmation, excuses to celebrate crammed into its nooks and crannies.

In October then, a month of metamorphosis, where sunny days turn overcast, warm breezes turn chilly, and nature changes her wardrobe from nautical greens to more vibrant hues,as if preparing for the celebrations ahead. The dominant theme in this month is the harvest, with grape crushing, chestnut warming, wine harvesting happening all over Europe.
 
Here's some interesting and alternative ideas for ways to celebrate this month :

Vendages de Montmartre (Wine Festival) - Paris - 10 -12 October. The quirkiness of Montmartre, the beauty of Paris and wine. Need I say more

Eurochocolate 2009 - Perrugia Italy - 18-26 October. A ten day chocolate festival with "Break Ranks" as its call to arms, it challenges participants to creativity with chocolate. They had me at chocolate.

Electronic Dance Festival -Amsterdam - 21-24 October. Think of this not as a festival of electronic music (eventhough it showcases the best, including David Guetta, Paul Van Dyk, Fatboy Slim), but rather as a place to go and dance your heart out to some great music. Amsterdam has some great attractions of the non hedonistic sort, the Van Gogh museum has the world's largest collection of the master's work.

Modial de la Biere - Strasbourg - 16-18 Oct - For those who missed the Oktoberfest or just can't get enough, here's the french equivalent. The fact that its located in the Alsace winegrowing region presents interesting sightseeing and wine tasting opportunities.

Festival des Arbres Lumieres - Geneva - 30th Oct - 29 Nov - Artistic light installations will be put up throughout on trees in the city centre. From what I see of last years edition, we can finally look forward some flair in Geneva.

(Gypsy invites readers to try at least one or more of the above locations and narrate their comments and experiences. Great stories will be featured as a guest blog on this site)

















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Thursday, October 1, 2009

This is not a shameless plug

and I'm not making money off of this (I wish!)

I'm linking to this great article I found on th Huffington Post. Do take the survey on the sidebar - I think it works for men as well!

What The Happiest And Most Successful Women Do Differently




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Monday, September 28, 2009

Gypsy in Wonderland

We are at the ticket counter at the Jardin du Cinq Sens (Garden of the Five Senses) at Yvoire. I stutter out a few words in french indicating that I would like to buy tickets. " Would you like to pay in Swiss Francs or Euros" replies the girl beind the counter, to our amazement, in English and with a smile. She informs us that there will be a brief introduction before we enter the garden.

There are other people scattered around the hall, also waiting to get the introduction. An older French woman, clearly the person in charge, sweeps into the room and calls for all those who want to listen to the intro in French. No response. "En Allemand", she asks, after a disbelieving pause. An old couple from Zurich raises their hands. "Alice will give you the English introduction" she gestures curtly towards the friendly girl who sold us the tickets.

All the people in the hall file towards Alice. The couple from Zurich follow suit. " We are ok with English" shrugs the old gentleman.

After a look that indicates that we were all a bunch of disgusting worms recently crawled out from beneath a rock, the French organiser departs, leaving us with Alice.


This is not the only surreal experience we have in Yvoire. The spooky feeling of having stumbled into Wonderland, or a set of one of Tim Burton's films persists throughout the trip.

The garden that we explore is a creation of the d'Yvoire family, a kitchen garden that has evolved into a work of art. We see the Venus flytrap, we smell curry and bubblegum alongwith roses and lavender. We sit quietly on a secret bench in the cloistered garden and watch people wander in and out.


Outside the garden, we wander along the walls of a medieval town. We see little gardens growing giant pumpkins and apples. We discover lanes that lead to a waterfront on the lake. We  see a medieval castle on one side, and a church tower covered in steel and gold (almost minaretlike) on the other. Almost as if from thin air, bags of bric a brac and souvenirs materialise in our hands.

A few hours later, at home, we survey the spoils of the afternoon.We are several francs poorer, ("but culturally richer", I insist).

The jury is still out on how soon we can repeat this magical experience.

(Yvoire has been voted one of the Most Beautiful Villages in France. We also enjoyed browsing at Equinoxe and Boutique Maxime)


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Wednesday, September 23, 2009

Death to the chick flick

It appears that Hollywood currently agrees on the type of cinema that women want. Beautiful and successful woman, managing a hectic career, maybe a child and a diet and exercise regimen that makes her eligible to be a runway model. Ruggedly handsome, male lead, great with children, successful, capable of putting relationships first, with body to die for in case he needs to take his shirt off. Both yearn for true love, and try to find it, unsuccessfully with supporting cast members, till the final few scenes where they decide they were made for each other. Throw in a few outrageous sexual gags and a designer product placement, and you have a box office winner.


Julie and Julia then is not a chick flick. One of its main characters is an unsuccessful writer living in a pokey apartment, working a dead end job as a receptionist, and the other is an uncoordinated, loud middle aged American preoccupied with French cooking. The men are hardly GQ material, one of them is a balding career diplomat, and the other a struggling writer with the Archeological Digest. To make matters worse, there is no scope for yearning and sexual tension. Both women are in committed relationships.


The film switches back and forth between the lives of Juila Child (who achieved iconic success in America with her book "Mastering the Art of French Cooking") and Julie Powell who stumbles upon writing success through a blog based on cooking her way through Julia's recipes. Through the film, the characters deal with issues of failure, frustration, finding their purpose in life and the struggle and heartbreak that goes alongwith. The search for true love is not their main preoccupation, but love, rather, is something that is always present and sometimes taken for granted, in the passionate pursuit of the ultimate end.

The film (courtesy the brilliant Nora Ephron) is quirkily and disarmingly funny, sweet and poignant and like one of Ms Child's desserts, holds a melting richness and depth of flavour. Meryl Streep as Julia Child is over the top yet outstanding (see Nora Ephron’s hilarious tribute to Streep at the AFI’s), Stanley Tucci portrayal as the romantic, humorous, indulgent Paul Child is heartwarming. Amy Adams is a tougher, street smart version of the Meg Ryan, her relationship with her boyfriend is a very real portrayal of a modern day relationship.


This then is not a chick flick, simply because its makers did not intend it to be one. It chooses to respect the modern filmgoer enough to trust that they would watch a film that is well written , has engaging characters and a good storyline. With more such screenwriting and less cynicism, we could then possibly look forward to a revival in good popular cinema.

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Friday, September 18, 2009

A Weekend in Venice- Wrapup

To wrap up, the highlights of the Venetian weekend …...
To Die For


  • The light in late summer. Slightly overcast, never too hot to walk or glide in an open air water vehicle



  • Dorsoduro – Funky, airy and very chic



  • San Marco piazza – simply stunning



  • Cioccolato Pepperincino. Chocolate goodness with a kick in the end



  • Venetian masks. Evocative of more dramatic times

Overrated


  • Murano glass – its very difficult to find something that is authentic yet with a modern take at the normal tourist haunts (for mandatory souvenirs try Frederica Glass near the station). A must see on Murano island is the church of Santa Maria e Donato, it has a beautiful aspect and some stunning sculpture both inside and outside.



  • Gondola rides – a bit cheesy and very expensive.



  • Cisalpino – definitely dated, needs the swiss touch. Also, very likely to not be on time.

I move on to planning the next great escape. Goodbye Venezia. Au Revoir.
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Wednesday, September 16, 2009

A Weekend in Venice - Day2

(This is the second of a three part series - Day 1 can be found on Chantal Gardner's blog http://www.onebigyodel.com)
What I really love about Italy is the sensory overload – every where you look there are sights that amaze, sounds that delight, tastes and smells that entice you . You need to be an energizer bunny on steroids to be able to take it all in.
Day two of Venice started out on a slower note however, with a quiet breakfast at a secluded (yes it is possible) café. We took to water taxi from Ferrovia to Accademia, where we ambled down the by lanes of Dorsoduro to the Peggy Guggenheim museum.
This is one of the quieter, classier parts of Venice. Small boutique stores and art galleries can be found all around. This is a great place to buy (if you can afford it) an original work of art or a souvenir that is not your run of the mill, murano/Chinese kitsch.
The Guggenheim museum itself was one of the more fun museum’s we’ve visited, simply because you never know what you are going to see next. From the quirky (Yoko Ono’s wishing tree in the courtyard) to the awesome (Giacommetti sculptures) to the inexplicable (Max Ernst), the place gives you a great introduction to the work of abstract and surreal art.
We walked down towards San Marco plaza from the museum, and began to get a true taste of how much of a tourist magnet Venice really is. Wading through the snap happy hordes however, allowed us a brief prelude from the sheer impact of of the cathedral as we approached the entrance of the square.
 As with the Sistine chapel in Rome, every cliché was true. Awe inspiring. Breath taking. Simply magnificent.
We sat at Florian’s in the square and watched the sights around us to a cup of choco café and the violinist playing in the background.
Beauty held us and a passionate energy bound us, along with thousands of others, as there was nowhere else to be but in the moment.
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Wednesday, September 2, 2009

Mars and Venus, Tiramisu and Fondant

So we are finishing brunch at this cafe on the weekend, after a bone crunchingly exhausting unpacking weekend. We just about have time for dessert before returning to the chaotic sea of cartons that is currently our home. We fleetingly contemplate experimenting with the house special (raspberry cheesecake in french), we decide on the tiramisu just as quickly.

The tiramisu appears and disappears in less than the time it takes to say "a flash". "God bless her" I say.

"Who?" P asks distractedly, scooping the last bit of cream off the plate

"The woman who invented tiramisu"

"What makes you think it was a woman?"

"It has to be a woman. Its creamy, sloppy, loaded with calories. Its not chocolate fondant, its comfort food"

"And chocolate fondant isn't?"

" Well it has to be more technical to achieve just the right amount of gooiness in the centre. Classic example of overengineering a cake. Has to be a man"

"It should be the other way around. By the women's lib definition of men at least.." P smirks.

He was right. This needed more research. I decided to google it.

I hit jackpot. Researcher Pietro Mascioni traces the dessert back to the 1960's, to a town in Tuscany called Treviso.

“Born recently, less than two decades ago, in the city of Treviso, is a dessert called Tiramesu which was made for the first time in a restaurant, Alle Beccherie, by a pastry chef called Loly Linguanotto.”

“The story is very credible,” said Mascioni, who traveled to Treviso to talk to the Campeols last fall. There, matriarch Alba Campeol told Mascioni that she got the idea for the dessert after the birth of one of her children. She was very weak in bed and her mother-in-law brought her a zabaglione, spiked with coffee to give her energy"


Hah. Point one proven. Now to prove point number two.

This proves to be more difficult however. Apparently fondant means different things to different people in the land of chocolate. However I persevere, and I come upon the following..

"The U.S.-based chef Jean-Georges Vongerichten claims to have invented molten chocolate cake in New York City in 1987. According to Vongerichten, he pulled a chocolate sponge cake from the oven before it was done and found that the center was still runny, but was warm and had both a good taste and a good texture."


Not overengineering but premature... i mean... jumping the gun. Another classic male trait.

Elementary really. I rest my case.








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Tuesday, August 18, 2009

Things I do to keep busy

A new activity just jumped to the top of my list of most hated activities. Its called "Networking". Its a polite word for a mercenary form of organised socialising, where the aim of eveyone present is to wheedle out a name, contact and possible availability of a job at the place where the other person works. You say hello to a person you never saw before in your life, you behave as if he/she is the most fascinating human being on the planet, and lead it up to getting recruitment related information from them. If the person is unemployed/just trying to make friends, you say a polite hello and move on. There is a roomful of people to cover after all!


Maybe I'm so uncomfortable with this, as I am normally at the recieving end of the snubs, being unemployed and all. However, I can't think I'd enjoy having people randomly walk to me and expect me to dish out job leads at the place I worked even if I were employed!

They say that doing this is a very important way of meeting the "right" people and getting a job, so I'm gritting my teeth and doing it anyway.

While we are on the subject of hated pastimes, another fast climbing one is "sightseeing". This is the one where you are the mandated escort to the latest set of friends who have a list of "destinations",usually taken off the internet, that need to be ticked off in order for them to go back to wherever they came from and safely proclaim "We did Switzerland this summer!" And all this time, all you are trying to do is remember how you love spending time with these guys, as you watch the gazillionth photo being clicked of the snow laden mountaintop!


Phew, felt good to get that off my chest. On to more positive ramblings. Luzern has to be one of the prettiest cities I've seen so far. Its waterfront beats Geneva, Ouchy and Montreaux. Ive done motorboat rides across all four and Luzern holds your attention the longest. A walk around the city just gives you a cleaner, livelier, more modern vibe. We chanced a drive to Interlaken from Luzern in pouring rain, this has to be one of the most drop dead, exhileratingly beautiful things I've ever done. And to top it all, the rolls we picked up from a gas station pit stop somewhere on the road were simply awesome.

In comparison to the rest of Switzerland, so far, Geneva seems a lot seedier. Older. Like a town that everybody forgot. Which is ironic considering its a top rated destination to live in the world.




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Thursday, July 30, 2009

Anatomy of the perfect pizza

I thought I hated it. The very idea of it was enough to ruin my appetite. In fact, various renditions of it ordered from fast food outlets during working lunches and late nights, had succeeded in not just putting me off pizza, but the entire cheese family. They were giant lumps of white bread, sometimes stuffed with melted cheese. The sauce was a sickly orange with no discernible taste. The toppings were overcooked, each standing on its own, without taking any flavour from others or the sauce. The seasoning tasted synthetic. Indeed the whole effort was a usually a regrettable mess, leaving you with a heavy stomach for the rest of the day.


That was until I discovered pizza in Europe. Freshly baked. Thin Crust. Toppings are fresh and uncomplicated. The tomato sauce is cheerfully piquant, and energetically seeps into the dough as it bakes. The wood fires in the oven give it a crusty base and a smoky aftertaste. The cheese adds its salty creaminess to the sauce. When you bite into a slice, you are welcomed by a warm, soft mouthful of tang and cream, teased by the crusty bite and lured into having another go. No heavy aftertaste here, rather an assurance that you are warm and well taken care of.


I could have it every day for lunch and dinner. Come to think of it, I have been having a lot of it. Hmmm... that might explain why my jeans don't fit so well any more...
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Tuesday, July 21, 2009

Sunburnt in the Swiss Riviera

Alors! it's been an eventful few days.
First up, it was mountain biking in Chamonix. There we were, gung ho expats, willing to give everything a shot. Two mountain bikes were thrust at us, we were bundled into the cable car, and then the ski lift, taking us upto La Tour. From there it was downhill all the way... figuratively speaking of course. By the time we got down to where we started, I was scraped, bruised, shaken and my butt hurt so badly, that I thought I would have to walk for the rest of my life! This was nothing however, for we still had a 6km bike ride to town to return the bikes (also through a dirt track), at the end of which I thought I had a serious shot at the Tour de France!

The experience however was awesome. The views, the air, the sheer thrill of careening down mountain tracks on the bikes, the sense of accomplishment at getting through it all... a repeat experience is definitely warranted.

Next, it was recovering from the sunburn that came with the abovementioned spectacular experience. At about Day 3 after Chamonix, I looked at myself at the mirror and gasped in horror. I looked like Voldemort, the entire surface of my face had dried up and was pulling up into a perpetual facelift. P rushed me to the nearest pharmacy, enduring my hysterics en route. The pharmacist gave me a skin cream and a paternal finger wag... apparently the sun rays in the mountains require extra strength SPF protection. Who wudda thought, born and bred Indian, with a stint in the desert heat of Dubai. Go figure.

After the 50th time of having to answer YES to "Will you still love me if I look like this forever?", P decided it was time to get me out of the house. We got on the train to Montreaux on the last day of the jazz festival. I've got this to say about the place.. "BLEEPING FANTASTIC!" We walked around the waterfront, ambled in and out of the various curio shops, caught a quick ride in one of the boats available to rent. They call it the Swiss Riviera; the views are simply breathtaking. The Rambling Wheels performed in the Park. They have a Beatles meets the Jonas Brothers vibe, more pop than jazz, I thought, but it all sounded good. We closed it all out with beer and the best hot dogs in town.

With eight to (optimistically) ten weeks of summer still to go, I can safely say that I'm having the time of my life!

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Thursday, July 9, 2009

Of job hunting and little French villages

So I walk into the office of this highly recommended "outplacement" agency. I meet a very tall guy wearing a suit.

Me - "As you can see, I have a good educational background and work experience for a Finance position in Geneva"

Guy - "Yes, eets very gud"

Me - "So how long do you think it will take for me to find a job"

Guy - solemnly.. "I must warn you that it cood take 9 to 10 months"

Me - flabbergasted. "But I will have a valid work visa within a couple of weeks..."

Guy - "Yes, but thees is Geneva. Here things work only if you have a network. "

Me - "OK. Will you be helping me out with this?"

Guy - "Sure. Yo pay me 4000 CHF. I will give you a desktop with internet access at my workplace. And (smiling conspiratorily) I have contacts with placement agencies. Also I have a profile on Linked In "

Me - Mentally " Are you !@#$ing kidding me?"


It looks like I'm in for a long haul as a bored, unemployed housewife. Maybe I should get into the outplacement business, sounds like a dashing good gig.

On the positive side, made my first trip to the South of France this week. We drove down to Annecy. It was charming. Its a little village on the banks of a lake, with a canal flowing through it.It had all the picture postcard fitouts - Chateau, historic church, street marching band,pubs and brasseries on the canalfront. Loved it.

Am looking out to a view of the Rive Gauche at the Rhone. There's a light breeze, and the light keeps changing as there are clouds in the sky. Despite the depressing outlook on the jobfront, I feel strangely calm and optimistic. All I want to do is go for a run.

Natural beauty counts for a lot. Who knew.
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Friday, July 3, 2009

The music more than the man

So we are at this karaoke bar last night with a bunch of friends (another last farewell). This is Dubai, so you have a crowd representative of most nationalities - Arabs, Filipinos, Indians, Pakistanis, Egyptians, Italians, Brits, Americans... you name it.

Black or White starts up, and spontaneously the entire bar joins in. Everyone knows every nuance of this song. Everybody wants more.

The universality of the appeal of MJ's music is his greatest legacy.
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Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Bye Bye Dubai

This is it.. time to leave. I'll really miss Dubai, it has been a great experience. Over the past few years it seems like we've grown together. Here's my ode to Dubai ... it had to be in sentimental (albeit rickety) verse.

Ode to Dubai

I covet this glittering jewel in the sand

No task or milestone too big for this land


Tallest tower, Longest marina,

Man made palm seen from the moon.

No mirage this, rather a calculated plan

For the oil may be over soon.


Willingly did I let it seduce

And flashed my wallet to the flimsiest excuse

Flashy red car, oversized IT bag,

Bling bling sunglasses and the latest Jimmy Choos


Little did I care for the blistering heat

So taken was I with the sea view

From my loft apartment, so painstakingly built

By men with mouths to feed and means too few


If Dubai is mine, then a nomad I must be

To follow shifting sands and changing reality

True to its traditions therefore I must be

And move to the next big thing I see


We meet again then, Inshallah

You have been a good and trusted friend

For all journeys pass through the centre of the world

Even if they are to world’s end.

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Thursday, June 25, 2009

Confusions of a new world woman in love

Nobody said anything about falling in love and landing yourself in an existential dilemma. I thought you met someone, fell in love, held hands and looked happily thereafter into the sunset.

Instead here I am, moving countries for the second time in 3 years, setting up from scratch, wondering if I'll ever be able to build the kind of career I imagined, and desperately trying to ignore that rational voice in my constantly asking me if this is indeed what I want to do.

Larger issues aside however, moving is fun. In the last few weeks, I've bought furniture with gay abandon, stocked up on insane amounts of food, shopped delightedly for summer clothes and winter clothes, shoes, bags.... the list goes on. I also get to learn a new language, discover this new place and its way of life.

I've also decided to keep a blog of my journeys, as a traveller and a human being. Let's see where the new world lifestyle takes me.
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